Mekong cruises are the ideal way to explore many of Vietnam and Cambodia’s most historic and cultural sites, not least the latter’s memorable waterfront capital, Phnom Penh. It’s the perfect place in which to learn more about Cambodia’s history, both colonial and ancient and the good news is that whichever river cruise line you choose to travel with, Mekong cruises will always include a call at the city, giving you plenty of time to explore.
Mekong cruises to a real cultural pearl
Phnom Penh was once known as the Pearl of Asia, a nickname which it earned thanks to the artful colonial architecture which shaped it during its time as part of French Indochina. Of course, though this part of its past is still one of its most enduring cultural draws, Phnom Penh’s history goes back much further than that and today, it’s very much Cambodia’s cultural heart as well as its economic and political centre.
The story goes that a humble local woman was instrumental in the founding of Phnom Penh in 1434. While out gathering firewood, Old Lady Penh spied a floating tree in the river, in which she found a number of statues of both Buddha and Vishnu. This was seen as a divine message by some that the capital of Cambodia should be moved from Angkor and though a shrine (Wat Phnom) was built to house the items, it wasn’t until Angkor Thom was destroyed by Siam (now Thailand) forces that it moved. It remained the royal capital until 1505, though was abandoned for 360 years after due to in-fighting caused by efforts by successive pretenders to gain the throne.
In 1860, it became the permanent seat of government under king Norodom I and a royal palace was built there. Shortly after, the king also requested a French protectorate over Cambodia, and the subsequent colonisation by the French saw the beginnings of the distinctly European architecture that would become a key aspect of what would become known as French Indochina. By the 1920’s Phnom Penh had grown rapidly and been extensively modernised.
During the Vietnam War, the North Vietnamese Army and the Viet Kong used Phnom Penh as a base and it became the scene of much intense fighting, which led to the displacement of many of its citizens. By 1975, the Khmer Rouge, an offshoot of the Vietnam People’s Army led by Pol Pot, had taken the city in what would become the bloodiest and most harrowing chapter in Phnom Penh’s history, when thousands of its citizens were forcefully evacuated and killed by the brutal regime. The Vietnamese took control in 1979 and since then, the city has continued to be reconstructed and developed. Mekong river cruises offer an opportunity to explore and understand exactly what took place during this terrible period of Phnom Penh’s history. However today, this is a city which is also in touch with its more distant past, its environment and its future.
Things to see in Phnom Penh
The Royal Palace
When it comes to must-see public buildings in the city, this is the one. More than just a historic site, the Royal Palace has been the seat of the Cambodian monarchy since its construction in the 1860s and is home to the country’s present king, Norodom Sihamoni. It’s divided into four different areas – the Silver Pagoda, the Khemarin Palace, the Throne Hall and the Inner Court. The Silver Pagoda is probably the area tourists flock to most and indeed, you’ll find it hard not to be impressed by the 5329 silver tiles which comprise its floor. The golden, cross-shaped Throne Hall is also worth exploring. Still a centre for royal ceremonies, it contains a total of three royal thrones and a collection of busts which pay tribute to past monarchs. The dramatic moonlight pavilion is so-called thanks to it being an open-air performance venue and it’s one of the most immediately visible buildings on the site.
Temples and pagodas
As well as the palace, Mekong cruises also give you the chance to explore a number of other key cultural structures in Phnom Penh. Probably the most important of these is Wat Phnom, thanks to its key role in the city’s very beginnings. This was the temple built to house the statues discovered by Old Lady Penh, which led to the city’s founding and indeed, the locals regard it as Phnom Penh’s spiritual centre to this day. It’s quite small and there’s not a great deal to see but owing to its huge historical importance, it’s certainly worth visiting. Wat Ounalom is an attractive riverside temple that’s certainly worth seeing if you want to escape the often busy Royal Palace, as it lies quite close by. It’s free to get in and very tranquil and the resident monks will be more than happy to answer your questions in English. Phnom Chisor involves a bit more of a journey to get to as it’s a mountaintop temple outside of the city itself. Obviously, this lofty locale means some spectacular views which are more than enough compensation for the journey. You’re sure to have a good time exploring the ruined complex and the remote location makes it even easier to imagine you’ve been transported back to the time of Cambodia’s ancient past.
The Khmer Rouge and the Killing Fields
While it’s fair to say that exploring a country’s most bloody and brutal chapter is not something every holidaymaker feels is appropriate for them, for some, a journey to Cambodia’s Killing Fields is an essential part of any Mekong river cruise. For a full perspective, however, it’s advisable to visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum first. It’s the former torture and detention centre used by the Khmer Rouge, which today serves as a museum to educate visitors about the horrors perpetuated by them. The Killing Fields were the execution grounds used by the Khmer Rouge during the Pol Pot era and today, it’s possible to visit them and take an audio tour which explains the harrowing history of the area and involves accounts from both witnesses and survivors. It goes without saying that it’s not an easy listen, but sometimes it’s worth reminding ourselves of such horrors, if only to reflect on the terrible suffering the Cambodians suffered and to pay our respects.
By Simon Brotherton
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